If you have some soft chenille yarn in your stash, this cuddly chunky puppy is a fun weekend crochet project. Made with super bulky velvet yarn, this free crochet dog pattern works up quickly and has a wonderfully soft, squishy texture.

With its oversized head, floppy ears, round eyes, little tongue, and seated body, this chunky amigurumi puppy has a sweet cartoon-inspired appearance. The pattern is worked in separate pieces and assembled at the end, giving you plenty of opportunity to adjust the placement of each part and create the expression you like.

This pattern is best suited to intermediate crocheters who are comfortable working in continuous rounds, making increases and decreases, crocheting small flat pieces, stuffing amigurumi, and sewing pieces together.

If you are new to working with plush yarn, you may also want to check out my Crochet Supplies I Use page for the hooks, yarn, and other crochet tools I regularly use for my projects.

Let’s get started!

🎥 Watch the finished puppy on YouTube

🧶 Pattern Overview

• Project Type: Chunky Amigurumi Puppy
• Skill Level: Intermediate
• Yarn Weight: Super Bulky / Category 6 Chenille or Velvet Yarn
• Detail Yarn: DK or light worsted yarn
• Hook Sizes: 4.0 mm and 2.5 mm
• Terminology: US Crochet Terms
• Finished Size: Approximately 26–28 cm (10–11 in) tall when seated
• Construction: Individual pieces sewn together
• Stitching: Mainly continuous spiral rounds

The finished size may vary depending on your yarn, hook size, crochet tension, and the amount of stuffing used.

🧵 Materials and Tools

You do not have to use the exact yarn brands listed. Similar plush yarns such as Himalaya Dolphin Baby, YarnArt Dolce, and Bernat Blanket can also work well.

For a closer look at the crochet tools and supplies I use, visit my Crochet Supplies I Use page.

Tip: Always check your stitch tension when changing yarn brands. A different chenille thickness can noticeably change the size and proportions of the finished puppy.

🔤 Crochet Abbreviations

This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology.

• MR: Magic Ring
• sc: Single Crochet
• inc: Increase — 2 sc in the same stitch
• inv.dec: Invisible Decrease — sc 2 stitches together
• BLO: Back Loop Only
• ch: Chain
• st / sts: Stitch / stitches
• rnd: Round
• FO: Fasten Off
• rep: Repeat

Numbers in brackets show the stitch count at the end of each round or row.

🐶 Free Chunky Crochet Dog Pattern

1. Head

Colour A — 4.0 mm hook

Work in continuous rounds.

Begin adding stuffing gradually as the head grows. Keep the stuffing firm enough to maintain the shape without stretching the stitches.

• Rnd 1: 6 sc into MR [6]
• Rnd 2: Inc in each st around [12]
• Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) × 6 [18]
• Rnd 4: Sc in each st around [18]
• Rnd 5: (2 sc, inc) × 6 [24]
• Rnd 6–7: Sc in each st around [24]
• Rnd 8: (3 sc, inc) × 6 [30]
• Rnd 9–12: Sc in each st around [30]
• Rnd 13: (3 sc, inv.dec) × 6 [24]
• Rnd 14: (2 sc, inv.dec) × 6 [18]
• Rnd 15: (1 sc, inv.dec) × 6 [12]
• Rnd 16: Inv.dec × 6 [6]

Add the final stuffing before closing.

FO and leave a long yarn tail. Using a yarn needle, weave the tail through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches. Pull gently to close the opening, secure the yarn, and hide the tail inside the head.

👀 2. Eyes

White Eye Base

Colour D — 4.0 mm hook — Make 2

• Rnd 1: 6 sc into MR [6]
• Rnd 2: Inc around [12]
• Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) × 6 [18]
• Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) × 6 [24]
• Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) × 6 [30]
• Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) × 6 [36]

FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Pupils

Colour E — 2.5 mm hook — Make 2

For each pupil:

• Rnd 1: 6 sc into MR [6]
• Rnd 2: Inc around [12]

FO and leave a sewing tail.

Sew the black pupils onto the white eye bases. Position them slightly toward the centre of the face for a friendly expression.

You can also embroider the pupils if you prefer not to use separate crocheted pieces.

🐽 3. Muzzle

Colour A — 4.0 mm hook

The muzzle is worked as an oval.

• Foundation: Ch 9.
• Rnd 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc across the chain [8]. Continue around the opposite side of the foundation chain and sc across the remaining loops [8]. Do not turn. [16]
• Rnd 2: (7 sc, inc) × 2 [18]
• Rnd 3: (8 sc, inc) × 2 [20]
• Rnd 4: (9 sc, inc) × 2 [22]
• Rnd 5–7: Sc in each st around [22]

FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Add a small amount of stuffing while attaching the muzzle to the lower front of the head. It should be softly rounded rather than tightly stuffed.

🐽 4. Nose

Colour C — 4.0 mm hook

• Row 1: Ch 5.
• Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc across [4].

FO and leave a long tail.

Shape the piece slightly with your fingers and sew it securely to the upper centre of the muzzle.

👄 5. Mouth

Colour A — 4.0 mm hook

• Rnd 1: 6 sc into MR [6]
• Rnd 2: Inc around [12]
• Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) × 6 [18]
• Rnd 4–5: Sc in each st around [18]

FO, leaving a long sewing tail.

Do not overstuff the mouth. A small amount of fiberfill is enough if you want it to have a little dimension.

👅 6. Tongue

Colour B — 4.0 mm hook

The tongue is worked flat.

• Row 1: Ch 6. Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc across [5]
• Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc across [5]
• Row 3: Ch 1, turn. (Sc, inc) × 2, sc [7]
• Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Sc across [7]

FO and leave a long sewing tail.

Do not stuff the tongue.

Sew the upper edge inside the mouth so the lower portion hangs naturally.

👂 7. Ears

Colour C and Colour A — 4.0 mm hook — Make 2

Do not stuff the ears.

• Rnd 1: 6 sc into MR [6]
• Rnd 2: Inc around [12]
• Rnd 3–10: Sc in each st around [12]
• Rnd 11: (1 sc, inv.dec) × 4 [8]
• Rnd 12–14: Sc in each st around [8]

Change to Colour A.

• Rnd 15–16: Sc in each st around [8]

FO and leave a long sewing tail.

Flatten the opening slightly before attaching the ears to the head. This helps create the soft floppy shape.

🐕 8. Body

Colour A — 4.0 mm hook

Work in continuous rounds.

Stuff gradually as you work.

• Rnd 1: 6 sc into MR [6]
• Rnd 2: Inc around [12]
• Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) × 6 [18]
• Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) × 6 [24]
• Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) × 6 [30]
• Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) × 6 [36]
• Rnd 7–12: Sc in each st around [36]
• Rnd 13: (4 sc, inv.dec) × 6 [30]
• Rnd 14: Sc in each st around [30]
• Rnd 15: (3 sc, inv.dec) × 6 [24]
• Rnd 16–17: Sc in each st around [24]
• Rnd 18: (2 sc, inv.dec) × 6 [18]
• Rnd 19: Sc in each st around [18]
• Rnd 20: (1 sc, inv.dec) × 6 [12]
• Rnd 21–22: Sc in each st around [12]

Add enough stuffing to give the body a firm base while keeping the neck area neat.

FO and leave a long tail for sewing.

🐾 9. Arms

Colour A — 4.0 mm hook — Make 2

Lightly stuff only the lower paw area. Keep the upper portion soft and flexible.

• Rnd 1: 6 sc into MR [6]
• Rnd 2: Inc around [12]
• Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) × 6 [18]
• Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) × 6 [24]
• Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) × 6 [30]
• Rnd 6–7: Sc in each st around [30]
• Rnd 8: (2 sc, inv.dec) × 6 [18]
• Rnd 9: (1 sc, inv.dec) × 6 [12]
• Rnd 10: (4 sc, inv.dec) × 2 [10]
• Rnd 11–18: Sc in each st around [10]

FO and leave a long sewing tail.

Flatten the upper opening slightly before sewing the arms to the body.

🦵 10. Hind Legs

Colour A — 4.0 mm hook — Make 2

These legs are designed to give the puppy a stable seated posture.

Foot

• Rnd 1: 6 sc into MR [6]
• Rnd 2: Inc around [12]
• Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) × 6 [18]
• Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) × 6 [24]
• Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) × 6 [30]
• Rnd 6: Sc in each st around [30]
• Rnd 7: Sc in BLO around [30]
• Rnd 8: Sc in each st around [30]

Lightly stuff the foot.

Leg

• Rnd 9: (3 sc, inv.dec) × 6 [24]
• Rnd 10: (2 sc, inv.dec) × 6 [18]
• Rnd 11: (1 sc, inv.dec) × 6 [12]
• Rnd 12–22: Sc in each st around [12]

Stuff only the lower portion of the leg. Keep the upper section flexible.

FO and leave a long sewing tail.

🐕 11. Tail

Colour E — 2.5 mm hook

• Rnd 1: 4 sc into MR [4]
• Rnd 2–23: Sc in each st around [4]

FO and leave a long tail.

If you want the tail to hold a gentle curve, you can insert a small amount of tightly twisted yarn inside while shaping it.

🐾 12. Paw Pads

Colour E — 2.5 mm hook

Make 6 small paw pads.

For each pad:

• Rnd 1: 6 sc into MR [6]

FO and leave a short sewing tail.

Sew the pads onto the feet and front paws as desired.

🎀 13. Collar

Colour of your choice — 4.0 mm hook

• Row 1: Ch 21.
• Row 2: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc across [20]

FO and leave a sewing tail.

Wrap the collar gently around the neck and secure the ends together.

Do not make the collar tight.

🪡 Assembly and Finishing

Take your time with assembly. With amigurumi, even a small change in placement can give the face a completely different expression.

1. Attach the Eyes

Place the white eye bases approximately between Rounds 8–15 of the head.

Pin them first and check that both sides are symmetrical.

Sew the eye bases securely.

Attach the black pupils slightly toward the centre of the face.

2. Attach the Muzzle

Position the muzzle below the eyes, approximately across Rounds 5–8 of the head.

Pin it first, then sew it securely while adding a small amount of stuffing.

Attach the nose to the upper centre of the muzzle.

3. Attach the Mouth and Tongue

Place the mouth directly below the muzzle.

Sew the tongue into the mouth so that the lower part remains visible.

4. Attach the Ears

Place the ears symmetrically on both sides of the head.

A good starting point is around Round 11, but adjust the position according to the expression you want.

5. Attach the Head

Center the head over the body opening.

Use several passes with the yarn needle around the neck join to create a strong connection. This is especially important because the chenille head is relatively heavy.

6. Attach the Arms

Place the arms on either side of the body, approximately around Rounds 13–17.

Pin both arms first and check that they sit at the same height.

7. Attach the Legs

Place the legs toward the lower front of the body.

Before sewing them permanently, place the puppy on a flat surface and adjust the legs until it can sit comfortably.

8. Attach the Tail

Sew the tail to the centre back of the body around Rounds 8–10.

Shape it into a gentle curve.

9. Add the Paw Pads

Sew the small black paw pads onto the feet and front paws.

10. Add the Collar

Wrap the collar around the neck and secure it comfortably.

📏 Tips for Shaping and Stuffing

The final shape of a chenille amigurumi depends heavily on stuffing and tension.

• Add fiberfill gradually.
• Use firm stuffing in the lower body so the puppy can sit upright.
• Avoid overstuffing the head.
• Keep the ears soft and floppy.
• Leave the upper arms and legs flexible.
• Check symmetry before sewing pieces permanently.
• Use pins to test the placement first.
• When attaching the head, make several secure stitches through both pieces.

If the stuffing becomes visible between your stitches, reduce the amount of stuffing rather than pulling the crochet fabric tighter.

❓ Frequently Asked Questions

What yarn can I use instead of chunky chenille?

You can substitute another super bulky plush yarn with a similar thickness. Himalaya Dolphin Baby, YarnArt Dolce, and Bernat Blanket are possible alternatives.

Changing the yarn can change the finished size, so always expect some variation.

Can I use safety eyes?

Yes. Safety eyes can be used if appropriate for the intended recipient. For babies and toddlers, embroidered or crocheted eyes are a better choice because detachable plastic components can present a choking hazard.

Why does my puppy look smaller than the pattern?

Your finished size depends on your yarn thickness, hook size, tension, and stuffing. Tighter stitches generally produce a smaller piece, while looser stitches can make the puppy larger.

Why are the ears not stuffed?

Unstuffed ears remain soft and floppy, which gives the puppy a more relaxed and expressive appearance.

Why are the upper arms and legs only lightly stuffed?

Keeping these areas flexible allows the limbs to sit naturally against the body. Overstuffing can make the puppy look stiff and can also make the seated position harder to achieve.

How can I make the puppy sit upright?

Make sure the lower body and feet are adequately stuffed, then test the leg placement on a flat surface before sewing. Small adjustments to the angle of the legs can make a big difference.

Can I sell finished items made from this pattern?

Yes, you can sell finished handmade items that you personally make from this pattern. Please do not copy, redistribute, translate, or republish the written pattern as your own. If you share your finished puppy online, crediting Amyliva Handmade as the pattern designer is appreciated.

💕 Final Thoughts

I hope you enjoy making this chunky velvet puppy. The combination of soft chenille yarn, floppy ears, oversized eyes, and the little tongue gives this amigurumi plenty of personality.

You can experiment with different colours to create your own version. Try cream, brown, white, grey, or even a completely unexpected colour combination.

If you make one, I’d love to see your finished puppy. Feel free to tag Amyliva Handmade when sharing your project online.

And if you enjoyed this free crochet dog pattern, save it to your Pinterest boards so you can easily find it again later.

Happy crocheting! 🧶🐶

The post Free Crochet Pattern: Chunky Velvet Amigurumi Puppy first appeared on Amyliva.