I love making small amigurumi projects that are cute, simple, and enjoyable to crochet, and this little dolphin is one of them. It has a rounded body, a small tail, and simple fins that give it a playful ocean-inspired look.

This dolphin amigurumi crochet pattern is suitable for beginners who are already comfortable with basic crochet stitches and working in the round. The project is fairly small, so it is also a nice choice when you want to make something without committing to a large amigurumi.

In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to crochet the body, shape the tail, add the fins, and finish your dolphin with the eyes and other small details. You can use cotton yarn for a more structured finish or try plush yarn if you prefer a softer, squishier dolphin.

Take your time with the shaping and stuffing, especially around the tail and fins. Small adjustments while you work can make a big difference in the final shape.

Why You’ll Love This Dolphin Amigurumi

This little dolphin is a quick and enjoyable project, especially if you like making small sea animals. The shape is simple, but the tail and fins give it a cute character once everything is put together.

Here are a few things you may enjoy about this pattern:

• Small enough to finish without a long crochet session
• Uses basic amigurumi stitches
• Easy to customize with different yarn colors
• Works well with both cotton and plush yarn
• Makes a cute handmade gift or decoration
• Can be added to a collection of crocheted sea animals

You can also experiment with the size by changing your yarn and hook. Just remember that your stitch tension will affect the final size and shape of the dolphin.

Skill Level

Beginner to Intermediate

This pattern is a good choice if you already know the basic amigurumi stitches and are comfortable crocheting in continuous rounds. You’ll need to know how to make a magic ring, single crochet, increases, and decreases.

The tail and fins require a little shaping, so beginners may want to take their time with these parts and check the photos as they work.

Finished Size

The finished dolphin is approximately 10–12 cm (4–5 inches) long.

The final size can vary depending on your yarn, hook size, and crochet tension. Using thicker yarn with a larger hook will make a larger dolphin, while thinner yarn and a smaller hook will result in a smaller one.

Materials Needed

• DK or Sport weight yarn
• 2.5–3.5 mm crochet hook, depending on your yarn
• Polyester fiberfill
• 6–8 mm safety eyes
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• Stitch marker

Choosing Your Yarn and Hook

I recommend using a hook that gives you fairly tight stitches. This is important for amigurumi because loose stitches can leave small gaps where the stuffing may show through.

Cotton yarn gives the dolphin a neat and firm shape, while plush yarn creates a softer and slightly larger version. If you decide to use plush yarn, follow the hook recommendation on your yarn label and use a stitch marker to help keep track of your rounds.

If you are making the dolphin for a young child, consider embroidering the eyes instead of using safety eyes. Always make sure that any small parts are securely attached.

Abbreviations

This pattern uses standard US crochet terms.

• MR – Magic Ring
• sc – Single Crochet
• inc – Increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
• dec – Decrease (sc 2 stitches together)
• ch – Chain
• sl st – Slip Stitch
• hdc – Half Double Crochet
• dc – Double Crochet
• BLO – Back Loop Only

( ) – Repeat the instructions inside the parentheses as indicated.
× 6 – Repeat the sequence 6 times.
Number in parentheses – Total stitch count at the end of the round.

Free Dolphin Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

Body

The dolphin’s body is crocheted in continuous rounds, so you do not need to join the rounds unless the pattern tells you to. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.

Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Round 2: inc around (12)
Round 3: (sc, inc) × 6 (18)
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) × 6 (24)
Rounds 5–8: sc around (24)

At the end of Round 8, you should have a small, rounded body. Before moving on, check that your stitches are even and that the shape looks symmetrical.

Do not fasten off. The yarn will be used to continue with the tail.

A Quick Shaping Check

At this stage, the body should be firm but not overly stretched. If you can see the stuffing through the stitches later on, try using a smaller hook or keeping your tension slightly tighter.

Tail

The dolphin’s tail is made from two small flukes worked from the end of the body. After completing Round 8, do not fasten off. Continue with the tail using the yarn already attached to the body.

First Fluke

Ch 5.

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work:

sc, hdc, dc, sc

Slip stitch back to the base of the chain to secure the first fluke to the body.

Second Fluke

Ch 5.

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work:

sc, hdc, dc, sc

Slip stitch back to the base of the chain to secure the second fluke.

Once both flukes are attached, gently spread them in opposite directions to create the shape of the dolphin’s tail.

Check the tail from both sides and adjust the position of the flukes if needed. Keep the stitches slightly flexible so the tail can be shaped naturally.

Do not continue crocheting the body from the tail itself. After completing the tail, return to the body and continue with Round 9 in BLO, as described in the next section.

Continue the Body

After finishing the tail, continue crocheting around the body. Keep your stitches neat and firm as you work.

Round 9: BLO – 24 sc (24)
Round 10: (2 sc, dec) × 6 (18)
Round 11: (sc, dec) × 6 (12)

Stuffing the Dolphin

Start adding the polyester fiberfill after Round 11.

Add the stuffing gradually rather than filling the entire body at once. Use a small amount at a time and gently push it into the rounded parts of the body.

The dolphin should feel firm and keep its shape, but avoid overstuffing it. Too much stuffing can stretch the stitches and make the surface uneven.

Once you are happy with the shape, continue with the final round.

Round 12: dec around (6)

Cut the yarn, leaving a long enough tail to close the opening. Using a yarn needle, weave the yarn through the front loops of the remaining stitches and pull gently until the opening closes.

Secure the yarn and hide the remaining end inside the body.

Shape Check

Before moving on to the fins, take a moment to look at your dolphin from the top, bottom, and sides. If one side looks fuller than the other, gently adjust the stuffing with your fingers.

Fins

The dolphin has two small fins, one on each side of the body. Take a moment to check their position before fastening the yarn, as placing them at the same height will help keep the dolphin symmetrical.

First Fin

Choose a position on one side of the body, slightly below the eye area.

Attach the yarn to the body and work:

ch 1, 5 sc, sl st

Fasten off and weave in the yarn end securely.

Second Fin

Repeat the same steps on the opposite side of the body.

Try to place the second fin at the same height and in a similar position to the first one. Look at the dolphin from the front and back before securing the yarn completely.

Tip: If the fins do not sit exactly the same, don’t worry. You can gently adjust their angle with your fingers before hiding the yarn ends.

Eyes Placement

The eyes are placed on the sides of the dolphin’s head, slightly above the fins.

Before attaching the safety eyes, place them loosely and look at the dolphin from the front and both sides. This makes it easier to adjust their position before they are secured.

Try to keep both eyes at a similar height and leave roughly the same amount of space between each eye and its corresponding fin. Small differences in placement can change the expression of the finished dolphin, so take a moment to check the position before pushing the eyes into place.

If you are using safety eyes, press the backs securely into position.

Safety note: Safety eyes are small parts and are not suitable for babies or very young children. If the finished dolphin is intended for a young child, embroidered eyes are a safer option. Always make sure all facial details are securely attached.

Helpful Crochet Tips

A few small things can make a noticeable difference in the shape of your finished dolphin.

• Keep your stitches tight. Amigurumi looks neater when there are no large gaps between the stitches.
• Add stuffing gradually. Filling the body a little at a time makes it easier to control the shape.
• Check the shape as you go. Turn the dolphin in your hands occasionally and look at it from different angles.
• Take your time with the tail. The two flukes should spread naturally rather than being pulled tightly together.
• Check the fins before securing them. Place both fins first and compare their height and angle.
• Position the eyes before attaching them permanently. Even a small change can make the face look different.
• Use a stitch marker. This is especially helpful when working in continuous rounds.
• Don’t overstuff the body. Too much fiberfill can stretch the stitches and change the shape.

If you are using plush yarn, work slowly and feel for the stitches with your fingers if they are difficult to see. Keeping track of your stitch count is particularly helpful with fluffy yarn.

Ways to Use Your Dolphin Amigurumi

Once your little dolphin is finished, there are plenty of ways to enjoy it. Its small size makes it easy to display or include in a handmade gift.

You could use your finished dolphin as:

• A small handmade gift for someone who loves sea animals
• Ocean-themed nursery or room decor
• A shelf or desk decoration
• Part of a handmade sea-animal collection
• A cute addition to an ocean-themed gift basket
• A handmade item for a craft fair or market

You can also make several dolphins in different shades of blue, gray, or other colors and create your own little underwater collection.

If you enjoy making sea animals, this dolphin can be a fun starting point for adding other amigurumi creatures such as whales, turtles, fish, or octopuses.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can I use plush yarn for this dolphin?

Yes. Plush yarn can be used if you want a softer and larger dolphin. Keep your tension fairly tight and use a stitch marker, as it can be harder to see individual stitches with fluffy yarn.

Why can I see the stuffing through my stitches?

This usually means the stitches are too loose or the body has been stuffed too firmly. Try using a smaller hook or adding a little less stuffing.

How do I keep the fins even?

Before fastening the second fin, look at the dolphin from the front and back and compare its height and angle with the first fin. You can adjust the position before hiding the yarn ends.

Can I make the dolphin bigger or smaller?

Yes. The easiest way is to change the yarn weight and hook size. Keep in mind that changing the yarn will also affect the amount of stuffing you need and the final proportions.

Can I sell dolphins made from this pattern?

Yes. You may sell finished dolphins made from this tutorial. Credit to Amyliva Handmade is appreciated when sharing your finished work online.

Can I share the written pattern?

Please do not copy, translate, redistribute, or resell the written tutorial. If you would like to share it with someone, please share the original Amyliva Handmade tutorial page instead.

Usage Conditions & Copyright Notice

This crochet tutorial is provided for personal use and enjoyment.

You are welcome to sell finished items made from this tutorial. If you share your finished dolphin online, credit to Amyliva Handmade is appreciated.

Please do not copy, reproduce, translate, redistribute, or resell this written tutorial or publish it as your own. If you would like to share this pattern with someone, please share the original Amyliva Handmade page rather than copying the instructions.

Thank you for respecting the time and work that goes into creating and sharing original crochet patterns.

© Amyliva Handmade. All rights reserved.

The post Cute Dolphin Amigurumi Crochet Pattern – Free Beginner Tutorial first appeared on Amyliva.

If you love small crochet projects that are both practical and cute, this mini dumpling bag is a fun project to add to your crochet list.

Inspired by the soft, gathered shape of traditional dumpling and bao-style pouches, this little drawstring bag is compact, useful, and easy to customize with your favorite yarn colors.

The pattern is suitable for confident beginners who are comfortable with single crochet, increases, working in continuous rounds, and basic crochet construction.

The finished pouch is a handy size for small everyday items such as lip balm, keys, coins, jewelry, or earbuds. It can also make a thoughtful handmade gift or a cute little gift pouch.

In this tutorial, you’ll learn how to crochet the rounded base, create the drawstring openings, add the ruffled top, and finish the bag with two simple drawstrings.

Note: This post may contain affiliate links. If you make a purchase through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Project Details

• Skill level: Confident Beginner
• Crochet terms: US terminology
• Project type: Mini drawstring pouch / dumpling bag
• Finished size: Varies depending on yarn, hook size, and crochet tension
• Main techniques: Magic ring, increases, continuous rounds, chain spaces, front-loop crochet, and basic assembly
• Closure: Two crocheted drawstrings
• Yarn: Sport or DK weight cotton
• Best for: Small everyday items, gifts, or handmade accessories

Why You’ll Love Making This Mini Dumpling Bag

This small crochet pouch is a great project when you want to make something useful without committing to a large project.

• Uses a small amount of yarn
• Works well with cotton yarn
• Quick enough to finish in an afternoon
• Helps you practice working in continuous rounds
• Includes a simple drawstring closure
• The ruffled top adds a cute finishing detail
• Easy to customize with different colors and yarn weights
• Makes a practical handmade gift

You can use the finished pouch for small everyday items or make several in different colors for gifts and handmade markets.

Materials and Tools Needed

Yarn

• Sport weight (Category 2) or DK weight (Category 3) cotton yarn
• A small amount is enough for one mini bag

Cotton yarn is recommended because it gives the pouch good stitch definition and helps it keep its shape. Mercerized cotton can also give the finished bag a slight sheen.

Crochet Hook

• 3.0 mm hook for Sport weight yarn
• 4.0 mm hook for DK weight yarn

Choose a hook that produces a firm fabric without making the stitches difficult to work.

Other Supplies

• Stitch marker
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Optional: small beads for the ends of the drawstrings

If your stitches look loose or the fabric feels too stretchy, try a slightly smaller hook.

Pattern Notes

Before starting, keep these points in mind:

• This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology.
• The bag is worked in continuous rounds. Do not join the rounds unless the pattern specifically tells you to.
• Use a stitch marker to identify the first stitch of each round.
• Gauge is not critical for this small project, but your stitches should be firm enough to create a stable fabric.
• The finished size may vary depending on your yarn, hook size, and crochet tension.
• When a round gives a repeat such as [1 sc, inc] × 6, repeat the instructions inside the brackets six times.

Abbreviations

• MR – magic ring
• sc – single crochet
• inc – increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
• FLO – front loop only
• ch – chain
• sk – skip
• st(s) – stitch(es)

Part 1: Base and Body

The bag starts at the bottom center. The first rounds increase evenly to create a flat circular base. Once the base reaches the desired width, the sides are worked without increases to form the body of the pouch.

Round 1

Make a magic ring and crochet 6 sc into the ring.

Pull the ring closed and place a stitch marker in the first stitch.

(6 sts)

Round 2

6 inc.

(12 sts)

Round 3

[1 sc, inc] × 6.

(18 sts)

Round 4

[2 sc, inc] × 6.

(24 sts)

Round 5

[3 sc, inc] × 6.

(30 sts)

Round 6

[4 sc, inc] × 6.

(36 sts)

Round 7

[5 sc, inc] × 6.

(42 sts)

Round 8

[6 sc, inc] × 6.

(48 sts)

Round 9

[7 sc, inc] × 6.

(54 sts)

Round 10

[8 sc, inc] × 6.

(60 sts)

At this point, the base should be a flat, even circle.

Rounds 11–24

Sc in each stitch around.

(60 sts per round)

The sides should now begin to rise, creating the small pouch shape.

For a taller bag, you can add a few extra rounds of sc before starting the drawstring holes. For a shorter pouch, work fewer rounds.

Part 2: Drawstring Holes and Ruffle Top

This section creates the openings for the drawstrings and adds the gathered ruffle around the top of the pouch.

Round 25 – Drawstring Holes

Repeat the following sequence around the entire round:

2 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sts.

Repeat this sequence 15 times.

At the end of the round, you will have:

• 30 sc
• 15 ch-2 spaces

The ch-2 spaces create the openings through which the drawstrings will be threaded.

Round 26 – Ruffle

For the 30 sc stitches from Round 25, work 2 sc in the front loop of each stitch.

Then work 2 sc into each of the 15 ch-2 spaces.

(90 sts)

This round increases the circumference of the top edge and creates the fullness needed for the gathered ruffle.

Round 27

Work 1 sc in each stitch around.

(90 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for weaving in. Weave in the end securely on the inside of the pouch.

Gently shape the ruffle with your fingers when finished. If you want a softer, less pronounced ruffle, avoid stretching the stitches while shaping it.

Part 3: Drawstrings and Assembly

1. Make the Drawstrings

Using the same yarn or a contrasting color, make two drawstrings.

For each drawstring:

• Chain approximately 90.
• Fasten off and secure the end.
• Make both drawstrings approximately the same length.

You can add a small bead to each end if desired, but make sure it is securely attached.

2. Thread the Drawstrings

Lay the pouch flat with the drawstring openings facing you.

Thread the first drawstring through the chain-2 spaces around Round 25, passing through each opening until you return to the starting point.

Thread the second drawstring through the same row of openings, but start from the opposite side of the pouch. The two drawstrings should travel in opposite directions through the openings.

When you pull the two ends of the drawstrings, the top edge should gather evenly and the pouch should close.

3. Finish the Bag

Pull the drawstrings gently to gather the top of the pouch.

Adjust the gathers around the opening so they are reasonably even. Tie the ends securely, or add small beads to the ends if you are using them.

Before trimming any excess yarn, open and close the pouch several times. Make sure the drawstrings move smoothly and that the pouch closes comfortably.

Weave in any remaining yarn ends securely.

Customization Ideas

One of the nice things about this mini pouch is how easily you can change its look without changing the basic construction.

Two-Tone Dumpling Bag

Change the yarn color before Round 25 to give the ruffle and drawstring area a contrasting color.

Striped Version

Change colors every few rounds to create simple horizontal stripes on the body.

Smaller Pouch

Stop the base increases earlier, for example after Round 8, then work several rounds of sc before adding the drawstring holes.

Taller Pouch

Work additional rounds of sc after Round 24 before starting the drawstring holes.

Different Yarn Types

Cotton yarn gives the pouch a more structured shape, while a softer yarn can create a more relaxed look. Remember that changing the yarn weight will also change the finished size.

If you change the size of the base, make sure the drawstring openings are spaced evenly around the top so the pouch can gather properly.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my crochet bag base curling?

The base should lie relatively flat through Round 10. If it starts to curl, check your stitch count first and make sure the increases are placed correctly. Very tight tension can also cause the base to curl, so try a slightly larger hook if necessary.

Can I use a different yarn weight?

Yes. You can use a different yarn weight, but the finished size and shape will change. Choose a hook size that creates a firm fabric and keep your tension consistent.

Can I add a fabric lining?

Yes. A lightweight cotton lining can make the pouch more durable and is useful if you plan to carry very small items that might otherwise slip through the crochet stitches.

How long should the drawstrings be?

The pattern uses approximately 90 chains for each drawstring. You can make them slightly longer or shorter depending on the size of your pouch and how much length you want for opening and tying it.

Why doesn’t my pouch gather evenly?

Check that both drawstrings are passing through every ch-2 opening in the correct direction. The openings should be evenly spaced around the top. After threading the cords, gently adjust the gathers before tying the ends.

How should I wash the finished bag?

For cotton yarn, gentle hand washing in cool or lukewarm water is recommended. Avoid soaking for a long time. Reshape the pouch while it is damp and allow it to air dry completely.

Can I sell finished bags made from this pattern?

Yes. You may sell finished bags made from this pattern on a small scale. Please credit Amyliva Handmade as the designer when sharing or selling your finished work.

Copyright Notice and Terms of Use

This crochet pattern is designed by Amyliva Handmade.

You may use this pattern to make finished mini dumpling bags for yourself, as gifts, or for small-scale sale. If you sell a finished bag made from this pattern, please credit Amyliva Handmade as the designer.

You may share photos of your finished projects and link to the original Amyliva Handmade pattern page.

Please do not copy, reproduce, translate, publish, redistribute, or sell the written pattern as your own. Do not republish the instructions or photographs on another website or social media page.

If you would like to share this pattern with someone else, please share the original pattern page rather than copying the instructions.

© Amyliva Handmade. All rights reserved.

The post Mini Dumpling Bag Crochet Pattern – Free Bao Bag Drawstring Pouch Tutorial for Beginners first appeared on Amyliva.

The finished mushroom can be used as a keychain, bag charm, or small handmade gift. The pattern is worked in separate pieces and then sewn together, making it a simple project for crocheters who are comfortable with single crochet, increases, and decreases.

Materials You’ll Need

• Red yarn for the mushroom cap
• Beige or off-white yarn for the stem
• White yarn for the spots
• 2.0–2.5 mm crochet hook, depending on yarn thickness
• Polyester fiberfill
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• Keychain ring or short metal chain
• Stitch marker (optional)

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• MR – magic ring
• sc – single crochet
• inc – increase
• dec – decrease
• st – stitch
• sl st – slip stitch
• R – round

1. Crochet the Mushroom Cap (Red Yarn)

Work the cap in continuous rounds with red yarn.

R1: MR, 6 sc (6)

R2: inc in each st (12)

R3: (1 sc, inc) × 6 (18)

R4: (2 sc, inc) × 6 (24)

R5–R6: sc around (24)

R7: (2 sc, dec) × 6 (18)

Do not stuff the cap. Leave it unstuffed until it is sewn to the stem.

2. Crochet the Stem (Beige Yarn)

Work the stem in continuous rounds with beige or off-white yarn.

R1: MR, 6 sc (6)
R2: (1 sc, inc) × 3 (9)
R3–R7: sc around (9)

R8: (1 sc, dec) × 3 (6)

Lightly stuff the stem with polyester fiberfill. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the stem to the cap.

3. Make the White Spots

Use white yarn to make small circles for the mushroom cap.

For each spot:

R1: MR, 6 sc, sl st to join (6)

Fasten off and leave a short tail for sewing.

Make 4–6 spots and sew them onto the red cap. You can vary their placement and use fewer spots for a simpler look.

4. Assemble the Mushroom

1. Place the stem underneath the center of the mushroom cap.
2. Sew the top of the stem securely to the underside of the cap using the yarn tail.
3. Check the shape and add a small amount of stuffing to the stem if needed.
4. Weave in and trim the remaining yarn ends.

5. Add the Keychain Ring

Attach a keychain ring or short metal chain to the top of the mushroom cap.

1. Choose a secure point near the top center of the cap.
2. Use a yarn needle and strong yarn to sew the ring or chain firmly to the cap.
3. Stitch through the cap several times so the attachment can withstand regular handling.
4. Weave in and hide the yarn ends inside the cap.

Finishing Touches

• Embroider a small face with black yarn for a kawaii look.
• Use different cap colors instead of red for a different style.
• Add a small bead or charm if desired.
• Try different yarn weights to make a larger or smaller mushroom.

Crochet Tips

• Keep your stitches fairly tight so the stuffing does not show through the fabric.
• Add small amounts of fiberfill at a time to keep the stem evenly shaped.
• Sew the stem and keychain attachment securely, especially if the finished piece will be used regularly.

Frequently Asked Questions

What type of yarn is best for this keychain?

Cotton yarn works well for small amigurumi keychains because it gives the mushroom a firm shape and usually has less fuzz than many acrylic yarns.

Can I make the mushroom larger?

Yes. You can use thicker yarn and a larger crochet hook to make a larger mushroom. The finished size will depend on the yarn and hook you choose.

How long does it take to make?

The mushroom is a small project and can usually be completed in about 1–2 hours, depending on your crochet speed and experience.

Can I sell finished mushrooms made from this pattern?

Yes. You may sell finished items made from this pattern in small quantities. Please credit AmyLiva Handmade as the designer when sharing the pattern or listing the finished item online.

Pattern Notes

• This pattern is worked in continuous rounds unless stated otherwise.
• Use a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning of each round.
• Keep your stitches fairly tight so the stuffing stays inside the piece.
• Stuff the stem lightly. Overstuffing can change the shape of the mushroom cap and stem.
• Secure the keychain attachment firmly before using the finished piece.

Finished Size

The finished size will vary depending on the yarn weight, crochet hook, and your individual tension.

Pattern Usage

This pattern is designed and written by AmyLiva Handmade.

You may make finished mushroom keychains from this pattern for personal use or to sell in small quantities. If you share the pattern online, please credit AmyLiva Handmade and link to amyliva.com.

The pattern itself may not be copied, reproduced, translated, or redistributed as your own. Please direct others to the original pattern on amyliva.com.

The post Amigurumi Mushroom Keychain – Free Crochet Pattern for Beginners first appeared on Amyliva.

The finished octopus is small enough to use as a keychain, but the size may vary depending on your yarn, hook size, and crochet tension.

In this pattern, you’ll find the materials, US crochet abbreviations, complete round-by-round instructions, tentacle pattern, assembly steps, and practical tips for making the octopus.

Materials and Tools

Before starting your mini octopus keychain, gather the following materials:

• Cotton yarn, such as YarnArt Jeans or a similar yarn
• 2.00 mm crochet hook
• 6 mm safety eyes
• Polyester fiberfill
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Keychain ring
• Black embroidery thread or yarn for the optional smile

Use a hook size that gives you firm, even stitches so the fiberfill does not show through the crochet fabric.

The amount of yarn needed will be small and may vary depending on your yarn, hook size, and crochet tension.

If the keychain is intended for a young child, embroidered eyes are a safer alternative to plastic safety eyes. Check the keychain attachment and all sewn details regularly to make sure they remain secure.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

This pattern uses standard US crochet terms.

• MR: Magic Ring
• sc: Single Crochet
• inc: Increase — work 2 single crochets in the same stitch
• dec: Decrease — work 2 stitches together
• sl st: Slip Stitch
• st(s): Stitch(es)
• [6]: Number of stitches at the end of the round
• ( ): Repeat the instructions inside the parentheses as indicated

Head and Body

Work the head and body as one piece using your chosen yarn. Work in continuous rounds and use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.

Round 1: MR, 6 sc [6]

Round 2: inc around [12]

Round 3: (1 sc, inc) × 6 [18]

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) × 6 [24]

Round 5: (3 sc, inc) × 6 [30]

Rounds 6–10: sc around [30]

Eye Placement

Insert the 6 mm safety eyes between Rounds 7 and 8, leaving about 5 stitches between them. Check the face from the front and adjust the position slightly if needed so the eyes are centered.

For items intended for young children, embroider the eyes with black embroidery thread instead of using safety eyes.

Round 11: (3 sc, dec) × 6 [24]

Round 12: (2 sc, dec) × 6 [18]

Round 13: (1 sc, dec) × 6 [12]

Begin adding fiberfill before the opening becomes too small. Add small amounts at a time and distribute the stuffing evenly. Avoid overfilling, as this can stretch the stitches and change the shape.

Round 14: dec around [6]

Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail. Use a tapestry needle to close the remaining opening by working through the front loops of the six stitches. Pull gently to close, secure the yarn, and weave the remaining end inside the body.

Tentacles

Make 8 using the same yarn as the body.

Chain 16.

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work 2 sc in each of the next 15 chains [30].

Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.

Gently shape the crocheted strip into a curl with your fingers. Keep the stitches relaxed while shaping so the tentacle can curl naturally.

Repeat the same steps until you have 8 tentacles.

Before sewing, place all eight tentacles underneath the body and arrange them evenly around the underside. Check the spacing from the front and sides so the octopus sits evenly when viewed from different angles.

Assembly

Assembly

Once all eight tentacles are finished, arrange them underneath the body before sewing them permanently.

Attach the Tentacles

Place the eight tentacles evenly around the underside of the octopus. Check the spacing from the front and sides so they are balanced.

Sew each tentacle securely to the underside using its yarn tail. Make several small stitches through the tentacle and body, then weave in the remaining yarn ends.

Add the Face

If you are using an embroidered smile, place it between and slightly below the eyes. Use black embroidery thread or yarn and make a few small stitches to create the smile.

Attach the Keychain Ring

Attach the keychain ring to the top center of the head using strong thread or yarn. Pass the thread through the crochet fabric several times and secure it firmly.

Before using the finished keychain, gently check the ring and all sewn pieces to make sure nothing comes loose.

Trim any remaining yarn ends neatly.

Choosing Colors for Your Mini Octopus

You can make this octopus in any color you like without changing the stitch counts.

For a simple look, use one color for the body and tentacles. You can also use a contrasting color for the embroidered smile or make each octopus in a different shade.

If you add a small bow, hat, or other accessory, attach it securely and make sure it does not interfere with the keychain ring.

Tips for Beginners

• Use a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning of each continuous round.
• Keep your stitches firm and even so the stuffing does not show through the body.
• Add fiberfill gradually and avoid overstuffing, which can stretch the stitches.
• Keep the tension relaxed when crocheting the tentacles so they can be shaped into curls more easily.
• Arrange all eight tentacles before sewing them to make sure they are evenly spaced.
• Check the keychain ring and all sewn pieces carefully before using the finished octopus.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is this mini octopus suitable for beginners?

Yes. The pattern uses basic amigurumi techniques such as single crochet, increases, decreases, stuffing, and working in continuous rounds. The tentacles are made separately and then sewn to the body.

Can I use a different yarn?

Yes. Cotton or acrylic yarn can be used. Changing the yarn weight or hook size will affect the finished size, so make sure your stitches are firm enough that the stuffing does not show through.

How many tentacles does this octopus have?

The pattern includes eight separate tentacles. Each tentacle is crocheted as a strip and shaped into a curl before being attached to the underside of the body.

Can I make this pattern without safety eyes?

Yes. You can embroider the eyes with black embroidery thread instead of using plastic safety eyes. This is a safer option for items intended for young children.

Can I sell finished octopus keychains made from this pattern?

Yes. You may sell finished items made from this pattern. Please credit Amyliva Handmade as the original designer when selling finished pieces.

How do I make sure the keychain is secure?

Sew the keychain ring firmly to the top of the head using strong thread or yarn and make several passes through the crochet fabric. Gently test the attachment before using the finished keychain.

Pattern Usage & Copyright

This crochet pattern and the original photographs on this page were created by Amyliva Handmade.

You may use this pattern to make finished octopus keychains for yourself, as gifts, or for sale. If you sell a finished item made from this pattern, please credit Amyliva Handmade as the original designer and link to the original pattern page when possible.

Please do not copy, translate, reproduce, redistribute, or publish this written pattern or its photographs as your own content. You are welcome to share a link to this original pattern page instead.

The post How to Make a Mini Octopus Keychain: Free Crochet Pattern first appeared on Amyliva.

The finished chick is approximately 8 cm tall when made with cotton yarn and a 2 mm crochet hook. The final size may vary depending on your yarn, hook size, and crochet tension.

In this pattern, you’ll find the materials, US crochet abbreviations, complete round-by-round instructions, assembly steps, and practical tips for making the chick.

About the Amigurumi Chick

This chick is a small amigurumi project made mainly as one piece, so there is only a limited amount of sewing during assembly. The rounded body is shaped with simple increases and decreases, making it useful for practicing basic amigurumi construction.

The wings, beak, and feet are crocheted separately and sewn onto the finished body. Because these pieces are small, checking their position before sewing them permanently helps keep the chick symmetrical.

The sample is made in yellow and orange, but the pattern can be worked in other colors without changing the stitch counts. Cotton yarn gives the chick a firm shape and makes the stitches easier to see while working.

Materials and Tools

• Yellow cotton yarn for the body
• Orange yarn for the beak and feet
• 2 mm crochet hook, or a size suitable for your yarn
• Polyester fiberfill
• 6 mm safety eyes or black embroidery thread
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch marker
• Scissors

The finished size will vary depending on the yarn weight, hook size, and your crochet tension.

For items intended for young children, embroidered eyes are a safer alternative to plastic safety eyes. Make sure all sewn details are firmly attached and check the finished item regularly for loose parts.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

Before you begin, prepare the following materials:

• Yellow cotton yarn for the body
• Orange yarn for the beak and feet
• A small amount of pink or white yarn for optional details
• 2 mm crochet hook, or a size suitable for your yarn
• Polyester fiberfill
• 6 mm safety eyes or black embroidery thread
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch marker
• Scissors

The finished size will vary depending on the yarn weight, hook size, and your crochet tension.

If the chick is intended for a young child, embroidered eyes are a safer alternative to plastic safety eyes. Make sure all sewn details are firmly attached and check the finished item regularly for loose parts.

Amigurumi Chick Crochet Pattern

1. Chick Head and Body

Work the head and body as one piece using yellow yarn. Work in continuous rounds and use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.

Round 1: MR, 6 sc [6]

Round 2: inc around [12]

Round 3: (1 sc, inc) × 6 [18]

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) × 6 [24]

Round 5: (3 sc, inc) × 6 [30]

Rounds 6–12: sc around [30]

Eye Placement

If using safety eyes, insert them through the stitches around Rounds 7–8. Place them evenly on the front of the chick and check the position from the front before securing the backs.

For a child-safe version, embroider the eyes with black embroidery thread instead.

Round 13: (3 sc, dec) × 6 [24]

Round 14: (2 sc, dec) × 6 [18]

Round 15: (1 sc, dec) × 6 [12]

Begin adding fiberfill before the opening becomes too small. Add small amounts at a time and distribute the stuffing evenly so the body keeps its rounded shape.

Round 16: dec around [6]

Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail. Use a yarn needle to close the remaining opening by working through the front loops of the six stitches. Pull gently to close, secure the yarn, and weave the remaining end inside the body.

2. Beak

Using orange yarn, work the beak in continuous rounds.

Round 1: MR, 4 sc [4]

Round 2: sc around [4]

Fasten off and leave a long sewing tail.

Flatten the beak gently with your fingers. Place it on the front of the chick, centered between the eyes. Check the position from the front before sewing.

Sew around the base of the beak with the yarn tail, making small stitches through the beak and body. Keep the beak slightly flat rather than heavily stuffed.

Weave the remaining yarn end inside the body and trim the excess.

3. Wings

Make 2 using yellow yarn.

Round 1: MR, 6 sc [6]

Round 2: (inc, 1 sc) × 3 [9]

Round 3: sc around [9]

Fasten off and leave a long sewing tail.

Do not stuff the wings. Flatten each wing gently between your fingers and shape it into a small rounded piece.

Place one wing on each side of the chick. Check that both wings are at a similar height and angle when viewed from the front.

Sew each wing securely to the body using the remaining yarn tail. Make several small stitches through the wing and body, then weave the yarn end inside the chick.

4. Feet

Make 2 using orange yarn.

Chain 4.

Starting in the second chain from the hook:

• sl st in the first chain
• sc in the next chain
• sl st in the last chain

Fasten off and leave a long sewing tail.

Make the second foot in the same way.

Place the feet underneath the body, slightly apart from each other. Check their position from the front and make sure both feet sit at a similar angle.

Sew each foot securely to the bottom of the chick using the yarn tail. Weave in the remaining yarn ends inside the body and trim the excess.

5. Assembly

Once the body, beak, wings, and feet are finished, arrange all the pieces before sewing them permanently.

Attach the Beak

Place the beak between the eyes and check that it is centered when viewed from the front. Sew it securely to the body with small stitches.

Attach the Wings

Place one wing on each side of the body. Check that they are at a similar height and angle, then sew them securely in place.

Attach the Feet

Place the feet underneath the body with a small space between them. Check their position from the front before sewing them securely.

Final Check

Weave in all remaining yarn ends and trim the excess. Check that the beak, wings, and feet are firmly attached and that the chick is evenly shaped.

If you used safety eyes, check that the backs are securely fastened before using or giving the finished chick to someone else.

Tips for Beginners

Keep Your Tension Firm

Use a firm, even tension while crocheting the body. The stitches should be close enough that the fiberfill does not show through.

Use a Stitch Marker

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you work.

Add the Stuffing Gradually

Add small amounts of fiberfill as the body takes shape. Avoid packing it too tightly, as overfilling can stretch the stitches and change the shape of the chick.

Check the Pieces Before Sewing

Place the beak, wings, and feet on the body before sewing them permanently. Look at the chick from the front to make sure the pieces are centered and balanced.

Changing the Colors

You can use different colors without changing the stitch counts. Keep the same yarn weight and a similar hook size if you want the finished chick to stay close to the original size.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is this amigurumi chick suitable for beginners?

Yes. The pattern uses basic amigurumi techniques, including single crochet, increases, decreases, and working in continuous rounds. The small wings, beak, and feet also give you some practice with sewing small pieces onto a finished shape.

Can I make the chick without safety eyes?

Yes. You can embroider the eyes with black embroidery thread instead of using safety eyes. This is also a better option for items intended for young children.

How big will the finished chick be?

The sample chick is approximately 8 cm tall when made with cotton yarn and a 2 mm crochet hook. Your finished size may be different depending on your yarn, hook size, and crochet tension.

Can I use a different yarn?

Yes. You can use another yarn, but the finished size and appearance may change. If you change the yarn weight, choose a hook size that works well with the yarn and crochet tightly enough that the stuffing does not show through.

Can I make the chick in different colors?

Yes. You can change the yellow and orange yarn to any colors you prefer. The stitch counts and construction remain the same.

Pattern Usage & Copyright

This amigurumi chick pattern and the original photographs on this page were created by Amyliva Handmade.

You may use this pattern to make finished chick amigurumi for yourself, as gifts, or for sale. If you sell a finished item made from this pattern, please credit Amyliva Handmade as the original designer and link to the original pattern page when possible.

Please do not copy, translate, reproduce, redistribute, or publish this written pattern or its photographs as your own content. You are welcome to share a link to this original pattern page instead.

The post How to Make an Amigurumi Chick: Easy Crochet Pattern first appeared on Amyliva.